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TideStitch

User Manual

A living guide to using the app — the stash, designs, the editor, jelly rolls, settings, and syncing.

A living guide to using TideStitch. This is an early draft covering the current prototype; sections will grow as features land.

What TideStitch is

TideStitch lets you audition real fabric in real blocks before you cut a single piece. You photograph your fabrics, drop them into a quilt block, and see them tiled at true scale, so a 6″ swatch in a 12″ block repeats the way it actually would in cloth. It's built for iPad first, runs on iPhone, and (once iCloud is set up) syncs your stash and designs across your devices.

There are three tabs along the bottom:

  • Stash: your fabric library of individual swatches and jelly rolls.
  • Designs: the quilts you're building.
  • Settings: app-wide quilting preferences (currently your seam allowance).

Everything you do saves automatically. There's no save button to remember, and most edits can be undone.

Getting started

When you first open the app, both tabs are empty. The usual path is: add a fabric or two to your Stash, then start a Design and paint those fabrics into a block. You can also go fabric-first with a jelly roll: declare the roll, photograph its strips, and the app suggests patterns that fit what you have. Or start from scratch with a Design Your Own board and rough out your own layout with the drawing tools.

The Stash tab

The Stash holds two kinds of fabric: loose fabric swatches and jelly rolls. A segmented control at the top switches between them (Fabrics, shown first, and Jelly Rolls), and each fills the full width as a scrolling grid. The ＋ New button just under the control is context-aware: it adds a swatch on the Fabrics tab and a jelly roll on the Jelly Rolls tab.

Adding a fabric swatch

  1. With Fabrics selected, tap ＋ New.
  2. Choose how to bring in the photo:
    • Take Photo: use the camera.
    • Choose One (crop it): pick a single photo and crop it yourself.
    • Add Several from Library: multi-select up to 30 photos at once; each is auto-cropped to a square. This is the fast way to load a lot of fabric.
  3. For a single photo, you'll get a square crop screen, then a details form:
    • A tile preview shows the fabric repeated, so you can see how it reads as yardage.
    • Give it a name (e.g. "Blue floral").
    • Set the real-world size: how many inches across the photo represents (1″–18″). This is what makes the tiling scale correctly later, so it's worth getting roughly right.
    • Optionally set a Category: Base color, Material, and Print style. All three are optional and default to None, they just make a big stash easier to filter later (see Filtering the stash). You can always set them afterward when editing the swatch.
  4. Tap Save.

When you Add Several from Library, the batch comes in uncategorized; tag each swatch afterward from its details.

To redo the crop before saving, use Retake / choose another.

Editing or deleting a swatch

Tap any swatch to open its details, where you can:

  • Rename it.
  • Adjust its real-world size. Because fabric is drawn at true scale, this directly changes how large the print reads in your blocks: size a swatch to match its patch and it shows as one clean piece instead of a repeat.
  • Recrop the photo: tap Recrop swatch to reframe it with the same pinch-and-zoom crop (and tile preview) you got when adding it. Recropping works on the stored photo, so you can tighten or reposition the frame; to swap in a different photo entirely, delete the swatch and add it again.
  • Set its Category, Base color, Material, Print style, or change one back to None. This is where you tag fabrics you added in a bulk import.

Once a swatch has a base color, a small colour dot appears in the corner of its stash tile so the stash reads at a glance.

To delete a swatch, press and hold it, choose Delete, and confirm in the dialog that appears; deletes are permanent and can't be undone, so the confirmation guards against a stray tap.

Filtering the stash

Once your stash grows, use the filter row above the swatch grid to narrow it:

  • Tap one or more colour dots to show only those base colours. Tap again to unselect.
  • Use the Type menu to filter by Material and/or Print style (each entry is a checkmark toggle).
  • Filters combine sensibly: within one axis, matches are ORed (Red or Blue); across axes they're ANDed (Blue and Batik). A count on Type shows how many material/print filters are active.
  • Tap Clear to reset to the whole stash. If a filter hides everything, the grid shows "No fabrics match, tap to clear."

Swatches with nothing set are Uncategorized: they show whenever no filter is active, and are hidden only once you filter on an axis they don't have.

Jelly rolls

A jelly roll is a bundle of pre-cut fabric strips (classically 2.5″ wide). TideStitch treats it as its own thing because the patterns you'd make from it are strip-based.

Creating a jelly roll

  1. In the Stash, switch to the Jelly Rolls tab and tap ＋ New.
  2. You land on the jelly roll's detail screen. Set:
    • Name
    • Strips: how many strips are in the roll (1–80).
    • Strip width: usually 2.5″ (1″–4″).
    • Strip length: typically around 42–44″ (20″–60″).

Photographing strips

In the Strips section, tap Add. The photo flow is the same as for swatches, except photos are cropped to a long rectangle and scaled so the strip's width renders at true size. Photograph as many strips as you like; the header tracks "X of Y photographed." You don't have to shoot every strip to start designing.

Starting a design from a jelly roll

Once you've photographed at least one strip, tap New design from this jelly roll. This opens the pattern picker (see below).

To delete a jelly roll, press and hold its card in the Stash, choose Delete, and confirm; this removes the roll and all its strips, and can't be undone.

The Designs tab

This is the list of quilts you're building, newest activity first. Each row shows a live mini-render, the block or pattern name, and the size. Tap a design to open it; swipe left to delete.

Starting a block design

  1. Tap ＋ ("New design").
  2. Pick a block from the grid of thumbnails. The starter blocks are: Pinwheel, Sawtooth Star, Broken Dishes, Friendship Star, Ohio Star, Hunter's Star, Log Cabin, Nine-Patch, Four-Patch, Shoo Fly, Churn Dash, Jacob's Ladder, Bear Paw, the HST Grid (a half-square-triangle canvas you size and colour freely), and Squares (a plain one-patch grid of squares).
  3. Set the finished size of one block (4″–24″). (The HST Grid and Squares have their own controls instead; see below.)
  4. Optionally name it, then tap Create. The editor opens.

Sizing an HST Grid

When you pick the HST Grid, the size slider is replaced by a small set of controls:

  • HSTs across and HSTs down (2–24 each) set how many half-square triangles make up the grid (default 8×8).
  • Size by lets you choose how the size is defined:
    • Each HST: set the finished size of a single triangle unit (1″–8″).
    • Whole top: set the finished width of the entire grid (12″–120″) and the unit size is worked out for you.
  • The footer shows the live math: each HST's finished size, what it squares up (cuts) to using your current seam allowance, and the finished width × height of the whole top.

Sizing a Squares one-patch

When you pick Squares, the size slider is replaced by controls for a plain grid of squares:

  • Each square (finished) sets the finished size of one square (1″–12″). Its cut size is that plus a seam allowance on every edge, a 3″ square cuts at 3½″ with a ¼″ seam.
  • Size by lets you drive the grid two ways:
    • Grid count: set how many squares across and down (1–40 each). The finished top is simply the count times the square size, 10 × 12 at 3″ makes a 30″ × 36″ top of 120 squares.
    • Target size: enter a target width and height, and the app offers the two whole-square sizes that bracket each target, the multiple just below and just above, so you never end up with a partial square. It preselects whichever lands nearest (a tie picks the smaller, to save fabric). Pick one per dimension and the footer shows the exact landed size before you create.
  • The footer always shows the landed top size, the cut size per square, and the total count.

Starting a jelly-roll design (the pattern picker)

When you start from a jelly roll, instead of picking a block you pick a pattern. The picker is fabric-first: every pattern shows a thumbnail, a short description, and how it fits your roll:

  • "Uses N of your Y strips" when you have enough.
  • "Needs N strips (you have Y)" in red, and the row is dimmed and unselectable, when you don't.

That way you can see what a pattern would cost even if you can't make it yet. The current patterns are Jelly Roll Race, Rail Fence, Strip Twist, and Strip Patchwork. Some note extra fabric needed (e.g. for borders). Tap one to create the design and jump into the editor.

Starting a Design Your Own board

The ＋ button is a menu: alongside New design it has Design Your Own, a freehand board you draw on yourself instead of picking a ready-made block. See Design Your Own (freeform boards) below for the full walkthrough. Setup asks for:

  1. A cell size, the size of one square cell (2″–12″). Cells are always square, so the whole top is a clean grid of squares.
  2. A grid, how many columns and rows (2–48 each). The footer shows the finished top size that makes (e.g. 10 × 12 squares of 6″ → a 60″ × 72″ top).
  3. An optional name, then Create.

Boards always start in Grid mode; you can switch to Radial once you're in.

The design editor

This is where the actual designing happens. The block (or quilt, or strip pattern) is rendered up top; the palette is along the bottom. A readout above the canvas shows the finished size (e.g. "Finished: 12″ × 12″"); for jelly-roll designs it instead reminds you how many strips the pattern uses.

Zooming in to place fabric

Pinch to zoom into the canvas and drag with one finger to pan around, which is handy for getting precise on small patches. When you're zoomed in, a zoom-out button (the minus-magnifier) appears next to the size readout, just above the quilt, to snap back to the full view. It lives above the canvas on purpose, so it never sits on top of a patch you're trying to paint.

The core move: load the brush, then paint

Everything works the same way:

  1. Tap a colour or fabric swatch in the palette to load it onto your brush. A highlighted ring shows what's loaded, and a hint line under the canvas tells you what will happen.
  2. Tap a patch to fill it. Each tap fills one patch, which keeps you precise on busy blocks.

To swap a fabric, just load a different one and paint over what's there. To erase, load the Clear (eraser) chip and tap patches to empty them.

The palette

The palette is split into collapsible sections: Blocks (quilt designs only), Background (block designs), Colors, and Fabrics (or Strips for jelly-roll designs). Tap a section's header chevron to collapse it and give the canvas more room; the app remembers which sections you've collapsed.

The Background row sets the light, recessive triangle of every HST cell in one tap, pick None, mix a Custom colour, or choose any fabric from your stash. It's a design-wide setting, not a brush: change it and every background triangle you haven't painted individually updates at once, while patches you have painted keep their own fill.

In the Colors row, from left to right: the Clear eraser, a Custom colour picker (tap to mix any colour), and a row of preset solid colours. The Fabrics row shows your full Stash for block designs, or just this roll's strips for jelly-roll designs. If it's empty, the app points you back to the Stash to add fabric.

When your stash is large, the Fabrics and Background rows each have their own Filter line (tap to expand it). It works exactly like the stash filter, colour dots plus a Type menu for material and print style, but only narrows what shows in that row, so you can paint from just your blues, or just your batiks, without scrolling past everything. The two filters are independent: narrowing backgrounds to cream solids doesn't touch what the Fabrics row shows. The count on Filter shows how many filters are active; tap Clear (or the "No fabrics match" line) to reset. Jelly-roll strips aren't filtered.

Undo, rename, and clearing

  • Undo: the curved-arrow button in the top toolbar reverses your last change (painting, resizing, clearing, and so on). It's greyed out when there's nothing to undo.
  • The More menu (the ••• button) holds two actions:
    • Rename: type a new name and tap Save.
    • Clear All Fills: removes every colour and fabric in the design (the block shapes stay). It asks for confirmation first, and you can undo it.

Building bigger quilts (block designs)

A single block is just the start. Most block designs can be tiled into a full quilt grid. (Jelly-roll designs have no Layout button. The HST Grid and Squares have one, but it reopens their own unit-grid controls, across/down and unit size, rather than the rows × columns quilt grid below.)

Layout

Tap Layout (top toolbar) to open the grid controls:

  • Rows and Columns steppers (1–6 each) set the quilt's size in blocks.
  • Block size stepper (4″–30″) sets the finished size of each block.
  • A live readout shows the block count and the finished quilt dimensions (width × height).
  • Fill new blocks from top-left (on by default): when you add rows or columns, the new blank cells automatically copy the top-left block and its fabrics, so you don't end up with empty squares. Cells you've already painted are left alone. Turn it off if you'd rather grow into blank cells and fill them yourself.
  • Multiply top-left block across grid copies the top-left block (its block type and its fabrics) into every cell, overwriting any you've varied. It's the quickest way to go from one finished block to a whole quilt top.

After multiplying, you can vary individual cells (see below) or paint each block differently for a gradient effect. Everything you do in the Layout sheet (resizing the grid, changing block size, auto-filling, multiplying) collapses into a single undo step, so one tap of Undo takes you back to where you started instead of unwinding row by row.

Mixing block types in one quilt

For quilt layouts, a Blocks row appears in the palette. Tap a block chip to load it, then tap a cell to turn that cell into that block. (Changing a cell's block clears that cell's fabrics, since the new block has different patches.) This lets you combine, say, stars and pinwheels in one quilt.

Borders

Tap Borders (top toolbar) to frame your design. Borders work on every design type: single blocks, full quilts, HST grids, and jelly-roll patterns. You can stack several, and they nest outward from the center field.

Managing borders

The Borders sheet lists your borders innermost-first:

  • Add: tap ＋. A new border starts as a 2″ solid denim frame so you can see it right away.
  • Reorder: tap Edit, then drag. Border 1 is the innermost (it touches the center); higher numbers sit further out.
  • Remove: swipe a row left, or use Edit.

Tap a border to open its settings.

A single border's settings

  • Width: 0.25″ to 12″, in quarter-inch steps.

  • Side style: how the four sides are built:

    • Solid: plain strips in one fabric or colour (set by the Fill below).
    • Flying geese: a row of "geese" (triangle units) marching around the frame.
    • Sawtooth: a row of half-square-triangle "teeth" around the frame.

    For the pieced styles (Flying geese / Sawtooth), the units resize to fit each side; change the Width to change how many fit. A live readout shows the count, e.g. "Top & bottom: 8 geese · sides: 6." Pieced units come up blank and are painted on the canvas (see below), so there's no side-fill chip for them.

  • Corner style: how the four corners are treated:

    • Butted: sides run straight past each other (the simplest frame).
    • Mitered: the corners meet on a 45° diagonal.
    • Corner squares: a plain square ("cornerstone") sits in each corner, with the sides running between them.
    • Corner blocks: a full quilt block sits in each corner; pick which block from the list that appears.

    Pieced sides have to run between corner pieces, so choosing Flying geese or Sawtooth offers only Corner squares and Corner blocks, and bumps butted/mitered corners up to squares automatically.

  • Fill (labelled Side fill when the border has corner pieces): for solid sides, load the border's colour or fabric here. A solid border is a single fabric or colour across all four sides.

Painting pieced sides, corner squares, and corner blocks: these all come up blank. Paint them right on the canvas with your brush, exactly like the rest of the quilt: load a colour or fabric and tap the pieces. (A solid border's side strips use the Fill instead.)

Rotating blocks

Every block design gets a Rotate tool in the top toolbar (jelly-roll designs don't; their strips have a fixed orientation). It's context-aware:

  • On a regular pieced block (Pinwheel, Log Cabin, Sawtooth Star, and so on), load Rotate and tap a block to turn the whole block 90° clockwise. Its fabrics ride along with the spin. Tap again to keep turning; four taps bring it back to where it started. In a tiled quilt, each cell rotates on its own, so you can spin individual blocks for pinwheel and windmill effects across the top.
  • On an HST Grid (or any design using half-square triangles), Rotate instead spins the individual HST unit you tap, 90° at a time through all four orientations. That's how you build custom triangle layouts (pinwheels, zigzags, diamonds, and so on).

Rotate is tap-only (no dragging), so you can't accidentally spin a whole row.

Merging patches (cut as one piece)

Sometimes a run of same-fabric patches should really be one piece of cloth, not a grid of little pieces sewn back together. A quilt's plain background is the classic case: if the whole lower-left of a block is one fabric, you'd cut it as a single large triangle, not piece it from a dozen half-square triangles. The Merge tool does exactly that.

Merge is in the top toolbar for every design except jelly rolls. Load it and the canvas switches to selection mode:

  1. Tap the patches you want to join. They have to be the same fabric or colour and actually touch each other. A running count shows how many you've picked; tap a selected patch again to drop it.
  2. Tap Merge. The selected area becomes one shape: its internal seams disappear on the canvas, and in the pattern it's cut as a single piece.
  3. If your selection isn't all the same fabric, or the pieces don't all connect, the app tells you and leaves them as they were, so you can't merge something you couldn't actually cut.

To split a merged area back into its patches, open the Merge tool, tap the merged shape, and choose Unmerge. Tap Done to leave the tool.

Merging changes the pattern, not just the picture: a merged region shows up in the cut list as one big square, rectangle, or triangle, and the assembly steps join it on as a late seam (see Making a pattern).

Design Your Own (freeform boards)

A Design Your Own board is a blank quilt top you rough out yourself with constrained drawing tools, instead of starting from a fixed block. It has two modes, Grid and Radial, and a Grid / Radial switch sits just above the palette. The two modes don't mix: switching with anything on the board asks first, then clears it so you can start the new layout fresh.

Everything you draw is stored as a recipe (the grid size, your cell cuts, the compass anchor and its rays), not as baked-in shapes, so a board reopens exactly as you left it and always renders crisp. You fill regions the same way as any design: load a colour or fabric, tap to paint.

Note: v1 freeform boards are for designing, they store and colour geometry, but don't generate a cut list or pattern yet. The Make Pattern option isn't offered on a freeform board.

Grid mode

The board is your finished top divided into the grid you chose. Two tools live in the toolbar:

Line (the diagonal-stroke icon) opens an edit view of the grid where you cut cells into regions. Your existing fills stay visible, faded, so you keep your bearings, and cutting a painted cell keeps the paint on both new pieces. Pinch to zoom and drag to pan to work precisely on a fine grid. A row of buttons picks the kind of cut, and a tap makes it:

  • Diagonal (╲╱), tap a cell near the corner-to-corner line you want; the nearer diagonal is drawn, splitting the cell into two triangles. Tap the same diagonal again to clear it.
  • Across (↔), tap a cell to cut it straight across into top and bottom pieces. The cut lands on the nearest ¼″ mark, so pieces come out as real measurements (never a 1.11″ rectangle), and a small label shows each piece's size in inches. Add as many cuts as you like, two make three bands. Drag a cut to slide it to a new size, or tap it to remove it.
  • Up-and-down (↕), the same, cutting a cell into left and right pieces.

Straight cuts and a diagonal are mutually exclusive in a cell, adding one replaces the other. Tap Done to go back to painting.

Merge works like the block editor's merge tool: tap touching regions, then Merge to cut them as one piece, or Unmerge to split them back. On a freeform board there's one rule, the pieces you pick have to form a single rectangle or triangle (a shape you can actually rotary-cut). An L-shape or other blob is refused with a nudge, so every merged piece stays cuttable. (See Merging patches above.)

To colour the board, leave both tools off, load a colour or fabric, and tap regions, whole cells, triangles, straight-cut bands, or merged pieces.

Radial mode

Radial mode turns the whole board into a single compass: one anchor point with rays fanning out to the edges, and the wedges between rays are your fillable regions. Two tools:

Anchor (the target icon), drag to place the compass point. By default it snaps to the nearest grid intersection; flip the Snap toggle off to drop it anywhere. Moving the anchor afterward just reshapes the wedges, your fills stay put.

Ray (the rays icon), drag outward from the anchor to add a ray. Rays snap to 7.5° increments by default (so you land clean 15°, 22.5°, 30°, 45°… angles), or turn Snap off for any angle. Tap an existing ray to remove it. You need at least two rays to split the board; with none or one, the whole top is a single region. As you add and remove rays, any wedges you've already coloured keep their colour, split a filled wedge and both halves stay filled.

Then, with the tools off, load a colour or fabric and tap wedges to fill them. Wedges correctly wrap the board's corners, so a corner wedge fills all the way out.

Merge works in radial mode too: load the Merge tool, tap neighbouring wedges (ones that share a ray), and tap Merge to fuse them into a single region, the seam between them disappears and they colour as one piece. Unmerge splits them back. Unlike Grid mode, there's no rectangle-or-triangle rule here: any run of touching wedges can merge, since a radial fan is one region you're colouring rather than a shape to rotary-cut. (See Merging patches above.)

Undoing and finishing

The Undo button (curved arrow) steps back your last action of any kind, a cut, a ray, an anchor move, a merge, a fill, even a mode switch (which clears the board, so Undo brings it right back). Everything autosaves too; close and reopen and your board, geometry and fills come right back.

Jelly-roll design tools

Jelly-roll designs get a Randomize button (top toolbar, the shuffle icon). It scrappy-fills every patch with a random strip from your roll, a fast way to get a lively, scrappy look you can then tweak by hand. It's disabled until you've photographed at least one strip.

Making a pattern

When a design is ready to sew, TideStitch turns it into a full pattern: what to cut, how much fabric to buy, and how to put it together. Open it from the ••• More menu → Make Pattern.

The pattern sheet reads top to bottom:

  • Sizes and seam allowance: the finished size, the unfinished (pre-binding) size, and the seam allowance the cut sizes are figured with. A note reminds you that yardage doesn't account for fussy-cutting.
  • Make: the units to build, grouped and counted, e.g. "6 × 3½″ half-square triangles" and "1 × 12″ finished triangle."
  • Cut: per-fabric rotary-cutting instructions, e.g. "cut 4″ squares × 3."
  • Fabrics Required: a yardage estimate per fabric, plus a Not Yet Chosen line for any patches you haven't given a fabric yet.
  • Finishing: binding strips, backing, and batting for the finished top.
  • Assembly: numbered, plain-language steps to piece the top, from cutting through squaring-up and binding.

Batched half-square triangles. When a design needs a stack of matching HSTs (same two fabrics, same size), TideStitch batches them for you instead of making them one pair at a time. It groups the HSTs and picks the most efficient mix of 2-, 4-, and 8-at-a-time construction, then tells you exactly how many squares to cut, at what size, and how many finished HSTs each batch yields. If a batch makes a few more than you need, it says so as spares. Under Make, each HST line shows its batch breakdown; under Assembly, you get the right step-by-step method for each batch size (with a reminder that 4-at-a-time units are all-bias and always get trimmed). You control the method and how much to oversize in Settings (see Half-square triangles).

Merge-aware patterns. If you've merged an area (see Merging patches), the pattern respects it: the merged region is cut as one big piece, and the assembly walks you through piecing the rest, then joining the big piece on as a late seam. For a block split on the diagonal (a background triangle behind a pieced design), the steps come out as a proper staircase: rows of decreasing length, each capped with an edge triangle, with press directions that alternate row to row so the seams nest, then one clean diagonal seam to join the background.

Exporting a PDF

Tap Export PDF (the share button on the pattern sheet) to generate a printable, multi-page document you can save, print, or send. It leads with a small picture of your finished design, then lays out the same Make, Cut, Fabrics, and Assembly sections as crisp text, with a page number in the bottom-right of every page. It's plain US-Letter paper, ready for the cutting table or the fabric store.

Settings

The Settings tab holds app-wide preferences.

Seam allowance

TideStitch works in finished sizes, the space a piece takes up in the finished quilt, with seam allowances tucked into the seams. Your seam allowance is what the app adds back when it tells you a piece's squared-up (cut) size: finished + 2 × seam allowance per edge. (So a 3″ finished HST with a ¼″ seam cuts to about 3.5″.)

Pick from the presets Scant ¼″, ¼″ (the quilting standard), 1 cm, or 1.5 cm, or choose Custom and dial in your own with the stepper. The "How sizes work" section on the same screen spells out the finished-vs-cut math with your current setting plugged in. Seam-allowance changes can be undone with ⌘Z or a shake.

Half-square triangles

Controls for how patterns build stacks of matching HSTs:

  • Method: Auto (the default) lets TideStitch pick the fewest batches of 2-, 4-, or 8-at-a-time for each group of matching HSTs. Or force 2, 4, or 8 to use that method everywhere; a forced size is always used even when it makes a few spares.
  • Largest batch (Auto only), cap Auto at 2, 4, or 8. Handy if you'd rather not wrangle the big 8-at-a-time squares.
  • Oversize (Square-up cutting only), how much extra to add per finished HST so there's room to trim each unit true after sewing. The default ⅛″ matches the familiar "cut 1″ bigger" rule for 2-at-a-time; the amount is scaled correctly onto the larger 4- and 8-at-a-time starting squares so those get their full trim room too.
  • Scant-¼″ seam reminder: adds a note to the assembly steps to sew a hair under your seam allowance, so batched HSTs don't come up small.

Cut sizes always use your current seam allowance and cutting mode, and round up to the nearest ⅛″ so they land on a real ruler mark.

Saving and syncing

TideStitch autosaves every change: adding fabric, painting a patch, renaming, resizing the grid. You can close the app or switch screens anytime without losing work.

If iCloud is set up, your stash and designs sync across your devices automatically. If it isn't, the app still works fully on that device using local storage, and will pick up sync once iCloud is configured.

Quick reference

I want to… Where to go
Add a fabric Stash → Fabrics → ＋ New
Add many fabrics fast Stash → Fabrics → ＋ New → Add Several from Library
Make a jelly roll Stash → Jelly Rolls → ＋ New
Photograph strips Jelly roll → Strips → Add
Start a block quilt Designs → ＋ New design
Start from a jelly roll Jelly roll → New design from this jelly roll
Start a freehand board Designs → ＋ → Design Your Own
Split a cell into triangles Line tool → Diagonal → tap near the corner you want
Cut a cell straight across / down Line tool → Across or Up-and-down → tap (snaps to centre)
Place several cuts in a cell Keep tapping in Across/Up-and-down; tap a cut to remove it
Zoom while cutting Pinch to zoom, one-finger drag to pan (in the Line tool)
Make a radial compass Switch to Radial → Anchor to place the point → Ray to fan out rays
Remove a ray Ray tool → tap the ray
Place a ray or anchor freely Turn off the Snap toggle in the tool bar
Undo anything Undo (curved arrow), cuts, rays, merges, fills, mode switches
Fill a patch Tap a swatch/colour, then tap the patch
Erase a patch Tap Clear, then tap the patch
Zoom in on the canvas Pinch to zoom, one-finger drag to pan, tap the zoom-out button to snap back
Undo a change Undo (curved arrow) in the toolbar
Spin a whole block Rotate, then tap the block
Spin a triangle Rotate, then tap the HST unit
Size an HST grid New design → HST Grid → across/down + Size by
Tile one block into a quilt Layout → Multiply top-left block
Grow a quilt without blank cells Layout → keep Fill new blocks from top-left on, bump Rows/Columns
Mix block types Blocks palette → tap chip → tap cell
Frame a design with a border Borders → ＋ Add border
Add a flying-geese or sawtooth border Borders → border → Side style
Paint a pieced border or its corners Set Side style / Corner squares-blocks, then tap the pieces on the canvas
Merge patches into one piece Merge tool → tap same-fabric touching patches → Merge
Split a merged area Merge tool → tap the shape → Unmerge
Make a cut list and pattern ••• More menu → Make Pattern
Export a pattern PDF Make Pattern → Export PDF
Auto-fill a jelly-roll design Randomize
Rename a design ••• More menu → Rename
Clear every fill ••• More menu → Clear All Fills
Collapse a palette row Tap the section's chevron
Set your seam allowance Settings tab → Seam allowance

Draft. Current as of the Slice 1 + Slice 2 prototype, plus seam-allowance settings, undo, zoom/pan, configurable HST grids, collapsible palettes, nested borders (solid, flying-geese, and sawtooth sides; corner squares and corner blocks), whole-block rotation for every block, cut-as-one-piece merging, re-croppable swatches, true-physical-scale fabric rendering, a segmented Stash with confirmed deletes, auto-filled new layout cells, and full pattern generation (cut list, yardage, assembly steps, and a printable PDF).